Jil Sander collection creates light from darkness, prettiness cut with punk details

By Canadian Press on February 26, 2025.

MILAN (AP) — The latest Jil Sander collection with shimmering surfaces cut dramatically against the darkened runway on Wednesday, the second day of Milan Fashion Week runway previews for next fall and winter.

Feminity subverted

Designers Lucie and Luke Meier subverted all things feminine with edgy details.

Frocks and outerwear created from long, sequined fringe grabbed the light, while feathery details fluttered on wool, creating contrast and movement. Delicate bows decorated long sculptural dresses.

All this prettiness was grounded by punk details: half-kilts belted over garments and silver hardware, like safety-pin-like necklaces, chunky baubles hanging from belts and studded footwear.

Light from darkness

Delicate floral prints seemed to have been dipped in a dark wash for an ombre effect on coats, dresses and suits. The effect — light out of darkness — was mirrored in knitwear.

The color palate was mostly black, white and grays, with pops of bubble gum pink in a long fringe dress and leather ensembles in royal blue for him and red for her.

Trend watch

A pair of shearling fur coats, shearling detailing on a long, deep-slit dress attest that fur is making a comeback on Milan runways.

Fur and leather collars that close with a silver chain. Silver accents in general. Shiny surfaces, sequined fringe.

Colleen Barry, The Associated Press